Contesting Place in a Post-colonial Space

(Re)colonizing Tradition

A Pedestrian Guide to a "Traditional" City

Welcome to Bhaktapur

[1] The Tea Stall at Guhepukhu

[2] Nava Durga Chitra Mandir

[3] Khauma Square

[4] Tourist Motor Park

[5] Indrani Pitha

[6]Lasku Dhwakha Gate

[7]Char Dham

[8]Cafe de Temple

[9]Batsala Temple

[10] Batsala Temple

[11] City Hall

[12] The Procession Route

[13] Pujari Math

[14] The Peacock Restaurant

[15] Sewage Collection Ponds

[16] Bhairavanath Temple

[1] The Tea Stall at Guhepukhu :
Duluwa and the Situationist¹s Derive

"The street . . . the only valid field of experience."
‹Ande Breton

After chugging up the hill from the Silaghari Forest area, the express bus from Kathmandu drops you off in Bharbacva, in the northwest edge of Bhaktapur [T1] . Just to the east of the bus stop is a newly constructed brick gate [B] about 30 feet tall. On the morning of 12 January 1999, when I started to write this guide, hanging from the gate¹s temporary bamboo scaffolding was a sign in Nepali proclaiming "The Nepal Peasants and Workers Party Third Annual Major Convention." It is one of the six such gates that the municipality is planning to build around the perimeter of the city. As you walk through the gate (and enter the city proper), to the right are a row of tea shops, where young men quickly take a glass of tea or a cigarette before they make the 45-minute commute into Kathmandu. To the left is Guhepaukhau, a large pond that often has children playing in a leaking boat and farmers watering their buffaloes [C].

    Many hours of my ethnographic enterprise consisted of hanging out with young men drinking tea and smoking an occasional cigarette and then getting up and wandering to another stall. These outings usually started here near Guhepukhu at Chandrayan Sweets, a stall owned by Dev Chandra Bajracharya.

    When I asked people what they called a young man who just walks about (these gumeko manche), the usual answer I received back was jokingly "hero." This was in specific reference to the English word used to describe the male protagonist in Hindi films. Yet there was a second word, "Duluwa," which as Drubi Gongah described it was "a man who does no work, wanders around drinking tea, talking with friends and smoking cigarettes

    What social labor does wandering around do? Circumambulation , walking around an object, person, or place in such a manner so as to encircle it, is one of the most common ritual practices found in both Buddhist and Hindu devotion. In this hypertext guide, I will incorporate the wandering spatial practices of the Duluwa and of Newar circumambulation of space, by linking them to the method of the derive Situationists.


Mandala Map

Tourist Map


Tour Map

Durbar Square

Tacapa Map



Key | Bibliography | Maps

© 2001 Gregory Price Grieve , Site design by GDL Historical Laboratories. .